Proper pruning sets your climbing roses up for a season of strong growth and beautiful blooms. Take the time to shape and train them when you prune, and you'll be rewarded with a stunning floral display in the summer months!
This week, I'm sharing my proven method for dormant pruning—the 5 Ds of Dormant Pruning—designed for hybrid teas, floribundas, grandifloras, and English roses. Most home gardeners and flower farmers grow these common varieties, and this simple method works beautifully for nearly all roses in your yard. Avoid using this method for climbing, once-blooming, or shrub roses, as they require additional steps and special considerations when pruning. Grab my FREE printable Dormant Pruning Guide to take with you to the garden.
I will receive my bare root roses while I'm still living in Phoenix, zone 9b. I plan to plant them in my summer location in zone 5b when I relocate the end of April. If I receive my bare root roses on the last shipping date in April can I wait to plant them when I relocate or should I plant them in pots as soon as I receive them?
Pruning isn't just about making cuts—it's about making the right cuts with the right tools. The proper equipment can make all the difference, improving efficiency, precision and plant health while making the task far less labor-intensive. High-quality, ergonomic tools not only reduce strain on your hands but also ensure cleaner cuts that promote faster, healthier healing for your plants. Over the years, I've tested dozens of tools, and trust me—when you're pruning thousands of roses, you quickly learn the value of investing in the best. The right tools don't just make the job easier; they make it enjoyable. I've curated a list of my favorite, tried-and-true workhorses, and I'm sharing them with you today.
Planting bare root roses in pots during winter/spring and then transplanting them into the ground in fall can offer certain advantages. However, I personally prefer planting bare root roses directly in the ground. This approach minimizes transplant shock and produces larger, healthier plants by the same point in the growing season compared to roses started in pots. Here's a closer look at the pros and cons of both methods:
Pruning is like giving your roses a rejuvenating spa treatment. By trimming away the old and dead parts, you revitalize your plants, creating room for fresh, vibrant growth in the spring. Dormant pruning is essential to perform once a year for maintaining healthy, productive roses by removing weak, dead, or diseased wood, allowing the plant to direct energy toward vigorous new growth.
We are experiencing some severe below zero temps this week here in Montana. Our winters are harsh and no fun. This is my last Montana winter hopefully. I have 60 potted roses and put them all under cover in sheds. The leaves are crunchy. They are in pots to take when I move. Will they survive?
This January has been unseasonably sunny and dry, and our roses are already beginning to push out buds—it looks like spring will be arriving early around here! At the farm, we're in the thick of bare root rose season this weekend, working hard to prepare and start fulfilling orders on Monday. I'm so excited to begin sending roses your way very soon!
In USDA Zone 6a/5b, providing winter protection for roses, while a time consuming task, is usually necessary to maintain their health and ensure plant viability in the following year. Grafted roses are especially vulnerable to winter damage because the graft union is sensitive to freezing temperatures. (Learn more about the difference between frost & freezing.) These types of roses are more likely to experience dieback of the top stock, making winterizing a critical step for their survival to remain true to variety. Mounding soil or compost around the base of these roses and covering with an additional layer of mulch, such as straw or shredded leaves, provides insulation and safeguards the graft union. Burlap wrapping can further protect individual plants from harsh winds, but this method, as you mentioned can be labor-intensive when managing a large number of roses.
This week has been better than the last for me—how about you? It felt so good to spend time outside on farm projects away from the chaos of the world. That's the beauty of gardens and farms—they ground us in a way that's hard to describe. I spent time on the farm getting our roses dormant-pruned and wrapping up the final preparations for our annual Bare Root Rose Collection launch.
Roses have always been associated with beauty, elegance, and timeless charm. The good news? You don’t need a sprawling garden to enjoy their magic! With the right guidance, you can grow stunning roses in pots, even if you're a beginner or short on space. Pots are not only practical but also incredibly versatile, making them perfect for balconies, patios, or experimenting with rose varieties.
The best time to transplant your rose in Zone 8b is during its dormant season, typically early winter (after the first frost but before any heavy freezes) so right now through the end of February is the perfect time for you. (If you're in a colder climate I wrote a few transplanting tips in a previous issue.) Since your rose was bare root planted two years ago, it should be well-established and can handle the move as long as you take care to preserve its root system.
This week, we're tackling a hot topic that confuses many rose growers—bare root rose grades. If you've been puzzled over terms like “Grade 1,” “Grade 1.5,” “Grade 2,” or why some bare root roses are bigger than others, this is for you.
There's definitely a noticeable difference between grafted and own-root Koko Lokoroses, and in my experience, grafted plants perform much better. Four seasons ago, I added both types to my bare-root rose collection (I now only offer grafted), and about seven years ago, I set up a trial section in my field to compare their performance side by side. Today, the grafted Koko Loko roses consistently outshine the own-root ones in my commercial cut flower production field, producing nearly twice as many blooms throughout the growing season. The grafted plants are also hardier and more vigorous overall.
Happy New Year and welcome to the first newsletter of 2025! I'm so excited to kick off another year of growing with YOU. As we step into this fresh chapter, it's the perfect opportunity to cultivate one or two meaningful habits that will help you care for your roses. My guiding word for the year—both for Menagerie the company and myself personally—is consistency. Rather than chasing drastic changes, I'm focusing on steadily maintaining the foundational habits to help everything flourish. These small but essential actions, like daily exercise, my Sunday evening self-care facials, or simply deadheading roses in our family garden every week, are the building blocks to making successful progress.
In Zone 5, where winters are colder, the best time to move established roses is in early spring, just before new growth starts, or in late fall, after the first frost (but before hard freeze) when the plant is dormant. This timing minimizes stress since the plant isn't actively growing, making it easier to handle the roots.
Now that we've tackled insect and disease care, let's explore the final step in a good fall clean-up - the essentials of fall shape pruning and tidying up your rose beds. This last stage will ensure your roses are primed for a winter nap and a successful spring!
As a best practice, we recommend planting your bare root rose as soon as you receive it. However, as we all know, sometimes life throws other plans our way! Keep reading to learn the proper steps for storing your rose if you can’t get it in the ground right away.
Symbolizing gratitude and appreciation, a bouquet of deep-pink garden roses is the perfect way to say "thank you!" Ranging from hot pink to berry to magenta, these are my favorite deep-pink garden rose varieties!
